35 replies to this topic

[Dunkey]

Herrow!

Progress thread for the car that replaced my old zed, awww.


So she started off like this... (from the advert)

Quote

Toyota celica GT4 rare uk model


280bhp

Engine

Forged engine using cp pistons
eagle con rods.
acl race bearings.
New valve guides, valve stem oil seals
cometic metal headgasket.
ARP bolts throughout.
new toyota water pump
New cambelt fitted at the time of rebuild.
blitz filter
hks ssq dump valve
Lagged chargecooler
hks turbo timer.

Bodywork and Interior

Body coloured bumpers
Power assisted steering
Electric windows, sunroof and mirrors
air con
Factory option side skirts
momo race Steering wheel and boss.
oz stile wheels.
new 4x goodyear eagle f1 tyers
kyb shocks (fitted 5000miles ago)
Blitz nur spec stainless cat back exhaust
boost,oil pressure,oil temp gauges

Security

Locking wheel nuts
Cliford Thatcham cat 1 alarm with certificate to prove authenticity.

Bad bits

some lacquer comming off spoiler in picture
electric aerial will not go down

12 nov 2011

> First thing I had to sort (after spending 150 litres of fuel in 6 days...) was the aerials grinding attempts at going up and down every time the ignition was turned. I had this on my old GTO so I know it's just the teeth in the mechanism that have worn out and need replacing. For the time being I just disconnected it. I may keep the extendy stock one and fix it or I may go for an internal one and blank the stock hole off, decision still to be made...




> Next, I decided to burn the boot install in a big fire





Much in the spirit of the early days of my zed modding I didn't look at any manual/haynes/forum, I just tore into it pulling the car to bits Working on an old jap car is always rewarding as there are only ever 2 screws between you and the bit you want to come off. Here are the pictures as i went along.


The whole install just lifted straight out of the boot, who ever did it originally left enough slack in the wires to make it nice and easy.





With a weight close to that of a small whale I will probably find the car drives better without it.





annoyingly it was wired down both sides of the car so i had to do a farily big trim strip to get them out





Having to sift through previous owners terrible wiring jobs I spied a few future fix's I'd need to do.





It all came apart really easily, I also found the headunit had a Aux in that was lying unused, got some cables into that and have the phone connected to it now





The terrible wiring quality continued into the engine bay where the power was coming from for the amp with its fuse. I took the opportunity to redo some of it with nice glue lined heatshrink. I couldn't bring myself to sell something so badly put together.





So the boot install is out, all wrapped up and ready to be sold (no idea what so ever what it's worth)





I also had to remove the terrible boot floor that was made out of half inch thick mdf adding yet more weight. the boot is now all clear





Then It got dark so I stopped for the day. Tomorrow I will tell you all about my awesome phone holder

[Dunkey]

Another thing to note. Annoyingly whoever did the audio install cut into the dash to get the single Din box in under it

[Dunkey]

Apologies if i think out loud here but...

Taking the original spec on the sale here are my thoughts...




280bhp - It was dyno'd at 279bhp before the forged bits were added, essentially it should just be the same but it's not been dyno'd recently. I'm not one for chasing bhp so I couldn't tell you if it was hub or fly or bananas that it was measured on.


Forged engine using cp pistons
eagle con rods.
acl race bearings.
New valve guides, valve stem oil seals
cometic metal headgasket - Any ideas on the advantages of this?
ARP bolts throughout.
new toyota water pump
New cambelt fitted at the time of rebuild - the engine was rebuilt due to failure of the piston ring on one cylinder, it didn't need rebored as no damage was done other than the knackered piston. At the same time as getting the rebuild the previous owner decided he may aswell put forged jobbies in instead of stock.
blitz filter - This will be going as metal mesh doesn't make the best filtration medium!
hks ssq dump valve - tee hee
Lagged chargecooler - Seems an ok job, not much you can do wrong though.
hks turbo timer. - did some reprogramming on this as it was doing my tits in staying on for 40 seconds no matter what even when manouvering. I turned the low rev timer down to 20 seconds, the "after you have caned it" timer was left alone.

Bodywork and Interior - bodywork needs a good polish as it is quite swirly, it's not too high on the list of priorities at the moment though

Body coloured bumpers
Power assisted steering
Electric windows, sunroof and mirrors
air con
Factory option side skirts
momo race Steering wheel and boss.
oz stile wheels. - these will be thrown on the big fire with the boot install, not entirely my taste
new 4x goodyear eagle f1 tyers
kyb shocks (fitted 5000miles ago)
Blitz nur spec stainless cat back exhaust - Another one contending for space on the fire. It started off with no bung in as thats how i bought it. this didnt last long as both me and my mate had incredibly bad headaches from it within 20 mins. I mean head pounding painful headaches. I sprayed the bung metalic black and put it in. The exhaust is a droning horrible sound, no refinement. Will be replaced at some point.
boost,oil pressure,oil temp gauges - I really want to move these as a pet hate of mine are A pillar gauges, they are just too in your face (pardon the pun) Although I still want to keep the information I just don't want it to look ricer which sadly gauges tend to do. I looked at an OLED system that you can use to display everything in one pod, you can even mount it behind the rear view mirror glass which appeals to me.... although I would need to get about 400 quids worth of stuff to get it to work :/

Security

Locking wheel nuts
Cliford Thatcham cat 1 alarm with certificate to prove authenticity. - Had to reprogram some of this as setting the alarm off 4 times at the petrol pump was a tad embrassing, it's been installed fairly well but it is the most basic version of that model with no extra features such as remote start (something i want!)


Bad bits

some lacquer comming off spoiler in picture - not decided what to do with this yet, i was going to wrap it in black as a temporary measure but it looks like it would be an a*** ache. seems i wil just have to bite the bullet and get it resprayed.
electric aerial will not go down

[Paul_S]

I'm going to watch this thread with great interest

It certainly looks like a nice project you have there. It looks like it's almost more satisfying ripping out the chav mods rather than starting with a standard car.

[Greg Warnes]

Looks like a good thread already, keep up the good work.

[Chilli Red]

Busy Boy! Love the bonefire, looks a bit like a coven!

Will be watching you too

[IanP]

Chav tastic

[Dunkey]

Thanks guys

Yes it is pretty satisfying ripping bits out

and Sarah, you are so mean to me!

[A Pair Of Flabby Wings]

That looks like a very good start to your Faff-ing (and no, that's not a grammatical error, as "Faff" is the a.k.a. for GT4s).

I used to live near someone who had a non-turbo Generation 6 Celica, and it looked very well engineered - unsurprisingly, perhaps, but good to see nonetheless. The engine bay looked nice and roomy too, which I also thought probably gave plenty of space for the turbo, and gubbins, and anything else a lot of future owners might fancy putting in there. Which a lot did.

I like the idea of the banana scale of measuring horse power.

Quote

cometic metal headgasket - Any ideas on the advantages of this?

Off the top of my head, I don't know. But hopefully it will take more heat etc. It does sound better than a comedic metal headgasket though.

Quote

boost,oil pressure,oil temp gauges - I really want to move these as a pet hate of mine are A pillar gauges, they are just too in your face (pardon the pun) Although I still want to keep the information I just don't want it to look ricer which sadly gauges tend to do. I looked at an OLED system that you can use to display everything in one pod, you can even mount it behind the rear view mirror glass which appeals to me.... although I would need to get about 400 quids worth of stuff to get it to work :/

I quite like the look of them in other's cars, but would probably quickly grow tired of them in my own. I like the OLED idea, but as you say it's not a cheap oprtion. Fortunately there are plenty of other options around and about now, so you've probably got more choice than you could wish for.

[Dunkey]

Yes i noticed that, why are they called Faff?

I'll have to have a ponder on the gauges, I need to scout about the dash to see where i want to mount them beofr ei go changing anything else. On another note, they have stopped working since i cut the wire to the amp. My guess is some shoddy wiring has come loose somewhere and needs redone.

I spent today sorting through old 350z bits so didnt get a chance to fiddle with the car still, out with the old and in with the new.

[A Pair Of Flabby Wings]

"Faff" comes from the fact that that's what owners spend more and more of their time doing. "Have a GT4?". "Yes!". "You will faff!".

Shoddy wiring on electrical mods is a bane, but at least it sounds like you're ready for it. And, as you say, out with the old and in with the new. "The King is dead, long live the King".

[Dunkey]

I'm not surprised, it's such an easy car to work on.



my biggest issue at the moment is that I have driven it to work EVERY day since i got it It's meant to be my weekend toy not daily driver

[A Pair Of Flabby Wings]

That's boost for you.

From other Faff owners I've known, for them not to be a daily driver you've almost got to take the whole engine out. Otherwise, they get used mid-build, whatever . . .

And now I'm getting tempted . . .

[Dunkey]

Haha everythig you say sounds very true!! i may aswell sell the saxo and get shares in BP

[Dunkey]

> 14 Nov 2011

So tonight after playing MW3, who isn't at the moment (it's a pile of cack) I decided to go out and fix the wiring that came loose while i was removing the sub. I decided it was best to cut out the crappy blue clip on splitter thing as i detest them. I cut it away, soldered the wires up and hey presto, working dials.



HOWEVER....like most things in life I am uncomfortable not knowing how they work, where are they connected, how are they connected, etc etc etc. So this is just a stop gap until I trace the wiring through the car and redo it myself in some way.

THEN. . . My nemises came into view, I wasn't ready for it, I put my hand in and thought "I know what that feels like" then, omfgwtfbbq!!!!1!1!111!! this was found.



ITS LIKE A DISEASE!!! WHY CAN'T YOU JUST DIE!!!!



I will be operating on this section soon with the hope that it hasn't spread further into her.

Then I went for a drive, because lets face it, you have to make sure the dials all work correctly at their full sweep...

[A Pair Of Flabby Wings]

Aww man! That was an incredbly funny post.

"I hate scotchloks, and was delighted to get rid of one and get something working, but then . . . !"

I don't know anyone who's serious about electrics who likes them, but I think if you're not they're alright. That latter picture looks worryingly like too many though. Far too many.

[Dunkey]

too many AND on audio connections. the mind boggles

They are ok for the odd joint, for power. If done correctly and tapes up after they arent the end of the world if it would be a big hassle to get the soldering iron deep into the car. However this is just retarded.

I will admit to looking forward to removing them all, i find it soothing

[Dunkey]

18 Nov 2011:

half day friday meant I finally had light to work on the car, I took advantage and got to work asap. After talking to one of the aero guys at work in length about the spoiler and what impact changing it would have (thinking safety at high speed), it turned out there should be no real problem removing the blocks raising it up. I did some research and found the blocks on there are from the homologation versions of the car, so they are the exact set up the WRC car used. As nice as it is to have some rally heritage on the car I felt they had to go. I'm not one to care about other peoples opinions but the spoiler was attracting the wrong kind of attention.


So here is the spoiler removed, was only held on by four bolts.




Here's the dirt from under them





and unfortunately no padding material was used under it so it just destroyed the paint here it is cleaned up






spoilerless!












Then I set to work on the hinge of the arm rest cubby, they are terribly flimsy plastic hinges that break easily so I decided to make a metal replacement. I got myself some aluminium and made a rough prototype with a hacksaw, file and drill. Having looked around the web there doesn't seem to be anyone already doing an uprated hinge and they break loads so I will probably look at getting a big lot of them made and sell them off.











I also velcro'd my turbo timer on properly as it was barely hanging in there






Also managed to throw some wash over the car and spray some quick detailer on the bonnet









Not bad for a couple of hours work I thought

[Paul_S]

That looks proper clean now mate.

I like the look of your more 'sleeker' Celica That said, I like it with the high wing too.

[Dunkey]

I'm 50/50 on either spoiler. but this way i wont get tailed as badly by idiots, I have never been treated so badly on the road and I feel it's safer to not have it.