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Another steering lock failure


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Hi all,

New to this forum but I've been on other Z forums for years. I joined here after reading a lot of very helpful posts regarding steering lock failures on 370z's.

As per the title, it seems my steering lock has failed; add me to the list of frustrated Nissan owners. I have a 2013 370z Nismo that I've owned for 2 years. I think the recent cold spell must have killed the SL as the car started fine just beforehand. I initially thought it may have been the battery, but after a charge it still wouldn't start, or even go into ACC. That's when I read the very helpful posts on this forum and realised I have the key light on the dash and all the same symptoms.

Looking at my steering lock unit, the model number is 48700-JF00D, which from reading around seems to be a later model that is still prone to failure. Would that mean that perhaps my vehicle was involved in the Nissan VSC with a previous owner? 

Having experienced the joy of Nissan customer service previously (I don't have Nissan FSH and bought the car privately), and given the ineptitude of local dealers (One couldn't fit a tyre to my wheel as "it wouldn't fit" and damaged my wheel in the process....." I don't even want to attempt to have this repaired by Nissan.

I have seen some people opting for the 48700 9n00b delete used in Altimas. Also Torqen do a steering lock bypass although I'm not sure if that is the same thing. Has anyone here had any experience with these, and is it a DIY job? 

I'm going to try and gently persuade the steering lock with a hammer later today to at least try and get it going and pull the fuse as a temp fix, but I don't really want to leave a faulty SLU in there.

Thanks

Adam

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What part of the country are you in?

Some people simply remove the correct fuse (as you mention). It's not hard - there are instructional videos on YouTube. Don't think you need to go to the expense of buying a bypass. One way to disguise the fact that the fuse has been removed is to replace the good one with a blown fuse. Nobody should admit to doing it though, as your insurance company might not pay up, if the car was nicked.

Of course, I'd never do it.

Good luck with the hammer - It works for some - fingers crossed for you. Update us on how you get on.

 

Edit - persevere with the hammer - I've read that it doesn't always work on the first few taps.

Edited by Chubbs

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I'm in the North East mate. 

Oh yeah 100% I would never do that, much like yourself. 

Rubber mallet got it going, a few fast taps after 4 or 5 tries. So it was definitely that - I don't know how Nissan have the gall to give people the runaround on this. The sheer number of versions of this part in a short number of years, and number of reported cases clearly shows there is a big problem with this. Charging people £1500+ is a complete joke.

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1 hour ago, Adrock said:

I'm in the North East mate. 

Oh yeah 100% I would never do that, much like yourself. 

Rubber mallet got it going, a few fast taps after 4 or 5 tries. So it was definitely that - I don't know how Nissan have the gall to give people the runaround on this. The sheer number of versions of this part in a short number of years, and number of reported cases clearly shows there is a big problem with this. Charging people £1500+ is a complete joke.

Well done mate - so glad for you. Whatever you do, DO NOT REMOVE THE FUSE LOL. :)

And I 100% agree with everything you've said. It's criminal to make people pay 1p for repairs to a substandard part, let alone £1,500.00. Shame on Nissan.

 

To be honest with you, I wouldn't even trust a new module from Nissan - I'd still be worried it might fail.

Edited by Chubbs

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WELCOME! 😁

Great that you got it started again.  Some have been in a real muddle getting stuck in places like car parks(!) because of the SL issue. Now that you're mobile again, you can explore 'fixes', some of which require the SL to be working while it's 'fixed'!

Drop us all an introduction post and don't forget to include some pics of your Zed! 

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I'm a bit paranoid about this happening to mine, even though as a 2017 vehicle it's been suggested that unit has been updated and is more reliable.

2017 370Z Nismo / 2020 SEAT Ateca FR Black Edition / 2001 BMW E39 540i 4.4 V8 Sport / 2015 French C1 Thingy....

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1 hour ago, Dave G said:

WELCOME! 😁

Great that you got it started again.  Some have been in a real muddle getting stuck in places like car parks(!) because of the SL issue. Now that you're mobile again, you can explore 'fixes', some of which require the SL to be working while it's 'fixed'!

Drop us all an introduction post and don't forget to include some pics of your Zed! 

I just spent half hour or so watching a few fixes and preventative measures from owners on yootoob. Aside from the fuse method, one guy simply unplugged the wiring block from the unit and the other literally drilled through the unit and inserted a screw to prevent the latch from actuating.

 

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2017 370Z Nismo / 2020 SEAT Ateca FR Black Edition / 2001 BMW E39 540i 4.4 V8 Sport / 2015 French C1 Thingy....

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Well done on fixing this yourself, could have been a real minefield (an expensive one at that) if it didn't work. Made me very uneasy about my own car when a couple of people had the same issue on here a year or two back and I found the following thread very useful, not that I could ever recommend or condone anyone replacing the appropriate fuse with a blown one, even if there were instructions by Chubbs on how to make a blown one too - purely for research purposes of course!

 

 

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